Despite all the people at the hot springs, we had a pretty quiet night in the hills away from the beach. It was a warm night, too, the warmest we’ve had in a while. It was nice not to have to be completely bound up in our bags.

We packed up and had breakfast down at the beach. Keith talked to a few groups of hikers about his missing umbrella and we were feeling optimistic that it would find its way back to him. In a way, it’s convenient that he lost it here with so many hikers in one place. Anyone who comes through trying to find its owner ought to get the message.

We successfully resisted the urge to stay another day at the springs and headed up the canyon. It was already getting hot at 8 am but we continued to get shade now and then as we snaked in and out of the smaller canyons. This has been a fun and pretty stretch to hike with the creek winding down below. As we neared the end, we passed a woman heading southbound. She had gotten caught in an ice storm on Mt. Baden-Powell, which we’ll tackle after Wrightwood. More motivating was the news she shared about the Mother’s Day cache of cold sodas at the highway a few miles up. That really got our feet moving…

We exited the canyon at the Mojave Forks dam, which is not like dams I’m used to seeing. There wasn’t any water going over the spillway. In fact, there didn’t seem to be any water moving anywhere. The guidebook said that it was used for flood control, but that it was mostly unnecessary since Deep Creek never got enough snowmelt to flood. We followed the trail behind the dam, fording the small stream bed after taking off our shoes – a new experience, since up until now we had been able to rock hop across creeks. Then it was up and down over some beat-up trail to the trailhead at Highway 173. When we reached the lot, we found an awesome surprise – trail magic! Shepherd was grilling up hot dogs and serving heaven in a cup – root beer floats! Nothing like a float at 10 am when you’ve hiked 7 hot miles already. She had oranges, too, which are quickly becoming one of our favorite trail treats. We’re still amazed and humbled that people do this just for the sake of helping us out!

While we were relaxing, the owner of the property next to the trailhead drove up on his ATV. Somehow Shepard knew that he trained dogs in rattlesnake avoidance, just like our friend Kelly who gave us a ride from Warner Springs. He offered to show us his snakes, which I was totally game for but Keith wasn’t as much. He had about 15 rattlers of different kinds in a cage in his backyard. It was super cool to see them all coiling up in defense and rattling their tails. I guess now I can’t complain about not having seen any.

After returning to the trailhead, two other hikers – Gator and Walking Home – joined our group and Gator had Keith’s umbrella! Just in time for a scorching desert slog! He was overjoyed to get it back. Now fully armed, we reluctantly pulled ourselves out of the hospitable vortex and headed out to make some miles…after visiting the previously mentioned soda cache.

We got a reprieve heading down towards Cabazon a week ago, but we were now definitely back in the full force of the desert heat. Even with our umbrellas it was oppressive. We ambled along slowly, eyes half closed, concentrating on moving as few muscles as necessary to get down the trail. Luckily it was pretty easy going with only small rises. We were definitely moving slower than usual, but we were doing better than we had been during our first week in the desert.

We were on hillsides once again, heading in and out of side canyons, hoping to see a change in the trail as we rounded each bend. The landscape to the north became enviously green and lush and cattle appeared. Finally we reached highway 173 again, and more magic in the form of cold sodas was waiting just across it. What a much-needed morale booster! We continued on past the Cedar Springs dam, along the highway for a while, and then into a shady wooded stretch. We couldn’t believe our luck when we came across yet another cooler. This one was full of fresh fruit! I hadn’t had a fresh peach in so long and I ate one so fast I nearly swallowed the pit. We also took an orange and a banana for breakfast. Fresh fruit tastes amazing when you don’t have the chance to eat it every day. All this unexpected magic has turned a tough, hot day into a bearable one.

After this last bounty, the trail started climbing steeply, much to our dismay. The reward was worth it when we stood on the ridge overlooking Silverwood Lake. Even the air felt different – after a full day of dry oven heat, we could tell the air coming off the lake was full of moisture. And cooler, too. It was still plenty hot as we skirted the lake high above the shore. We enviously watched people cruising around in their boats down below. It reminded me of MN. After another mile or two we reached a steep side trail to a boat-in picnic area with outhouses and trash cans. Without a second thought we started down. We were planning on taking a dip, but given how late it was getting and how cold the water was we just waded around, washed out our sweaty shirts, and gave ourselves bandanna baths. I called my mom to wish her a happy Mother’s Day as Keith had earlier. It was a lucky day to have cell service!

After our refreshing break we headed back up the slope to get in a few more miles. It had finally cooled off and we made great time, hiking through swarms of shrieking gnats and on into the dark to reach our next water source at the lake’s main picnic area/parking lot. We didn’t get as far was we would have liked for the day, but for how hot it was we did pretty well. Tomorrow we go under I-15 and another interstate crossing means more hot weather. There is a bonus, though – the hiker heaven of a McDonalds at Cajon Pass. All the soda I can drink and French fries to boot – that’s enough to get me 13 miles through the heat.

– Posted from the PCT

Location:Pct mile 328